time to pull the plug
Now the tape seal is removed, and I found a plastic plug that fits into a slot between the upper and lower drive housings. I’m not sure of its purpose, but I set it aside to make sure it didn’t get lost, just in case it was somehow vital to the drive’s operation. One screw left in place held things together while I removed the tape seal.
a peek inside
With my drive set flat on the work surface, I removed the upper drive housing for the first time.
all the gubbins
With the cover completely removed, the drive’s platters and mechanism were completely exposed. Any foreign material that got into the drive at this point could have damaged it severely.
zip it up
To protect the drive platters from damage, I used a plastic food storage bag with a zipper seal. All the work went into the upper housing, so the rest of the drive needed to be set aside in a safe place and protected from damage.
score and snap
To cut the window insert, I first marked off my dimensions on my sheet of acrylic. I used 0.125 material, so scoring and snapping is the easiest way to cut it, provided your shape has straight edges. I decided a rectangular insert would look the cleanest, but rounding the corners slightly would help with the finished look as well as tie in to the curved lines on the upper housing. I clamped the material and a metal straight edge to my bench top with a C-clamp. Using a utility knife, I scored the material.
checking for fit
Next I checked the fit of the window insert. The housing would have to be cut to leave a lip for the window, so that adhesive could bond the window insert to the housing. I didn’t use this piece because it was slightly too small.
Page: 1 2 3 4