detail of the bottom–Sony logo cleanly obliterated
all raised detail is still there
but all silkscreened markings are covered
Here’s some detail shots of the finished pieces. You can get some sense of the finish from these–look how the raised markings on the cabinets are still quite readable. The glare from the flash makes these look more glossy than they really are. I would call the finish satin black, even though the product is labeled flat black.
all done with the paint job now
This picture depicts the finish more accurately. I didn’t get as much flash flare from this distance.
With the paint job under control, it’s time to go and work on the electronics. Warm up your soldering irons…
the circuit board is ready for surgery
While those dried, I changed out the LEDs. Here you see the circuit board with the volume and tone controls (Sony calls it by some esoteric three letter acronym that is totally meaningless, but it’s a tone control as far as I can tell) and the power LED. It’s hard to make out in this shot, but the LED leads are bent 90 degrees and the LED sits about an inch above the circuit board. So I used small pliers to grasp the leads of my replacement LEDs and put a 90 degree bend in by hand, eye balling the distance.
old LED ready to come out
This is the underside of the board after I desoldered the LED but before I removed it. I don’t have a solder sucker, so I used some desoldering braid. There was a large blob on the LED, so I had to hold my crappy 15 Watt iron in place for long enough that you can see the discoloration around the solder pads on the board. When you do this, try hard not to overheat the board. The way to do it right is to use a more powerful iron than I did, so you don’t have it in contact with the board as long. At this point, I didn’t really know that I hadn’t damaged the board, because I couldn’t see well around that heat sink. I couldn’t remove the heat sink without desoldering an IC, so it stayed on.
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